UPDATE 1/21/17: I have a new version, Mitered Granny Square 2.1 which is a diagram for a mitered square with ch2 corners and ch1 in between the 3dc clusters that you may want to check out.
To help understand how to do the Mitered Granny Square, here is a diagram. The diagram only shows the first part of mitering to get you started, it should be easy to extend it to additional rows as needed. The border is included.
Well, I think it is better : ) As I said before, in my other Granny Rectangle post (I think this one is better), I have always been unsatisfied with how the center of granny rectangles line up in the middle, instead of alternating like it does in the rest of the fabric. It seems weaker and is not as pleasing to me, I just don’t like it : ) Don’t know why I didn’t do it this way the first time I got the idea, but at least I thought of it now.
Granny Rectangle Dog Mat (has a longer starting center)
Granny Rectangle Throw
2/9/17: I have a new post A Better Granny Rectangle Revisited. I have made some tweaks to how I do them since I first posted this and thought it deserved a new post. I include another version for doing them with 3dc, ch1.
1/17/17: I have added a Granny Rectangle V2.0 diagram (at the end of this article). This one has ch2 corners and ch1 in between the 3dc’s, to show that version of granny squares.
2/25/16: I have added another diagram that shows another round added so you can see how I continue on in the same color, it is near the end of the article.
For the size I did in the example:
Ch 22 Ch 21 (corrected 8-24-13)
In the 6th chain from the hook, 3dc.
Skip 2 stitches, 3dc in same stitch.
Continue across, skipping 2 and doing 3dc in the same stitch. When you reach the last ch, 1dc. Ch3 (counts as a dc)
In the space on the end created by the dc and foundation ch; 2dc, ch3, 3dc, ch3, 3dc. 2 corners on the end made.
3dc in each space between across…
At the next end; in the ch 5 space 3dc, ch3, 3dc, ch3, 3dc to make the corners on the other end.
Now, go across the other side, making 3dc in each space between…
Slpst into the top of the beginning ch3 and there you have it!
I find diagrams so helpful (pretend you don’t notice that I forgot the ending slpst in the diagram):
and another, to help with the maths of the repeats in case you want a different size…
Updated 2/25/16: Here is a diagram with another round of crochet added. To continue on, you would repeat as in the 2 rounds shown. Update: you can do ch2 in the corners if you find ch3’s are too much. Ch3 works fine for smaller projects, but ch2 would be better for larger items.
Update 1/17/17
This is A Better Granny Rectangle v2.0. The difference is ch2 on the corners and ch1 in between the 3dc’s. For those times you are using this to make a blanket and want to make your grannies with the ch1 between clusters. To change the size, adjust by 4 ch’s.
I am feeling that the added space in the starting chain in this 2.0 version is too much, not working as neat and tidy as I would like. Looks like this will be evolving even more, stay tuned!
1/21/17: A new version that is done with ch2 corners and a ch1 between the 3dc clusters, diagram for Mitered Granny Square 2.1.
Diagram for Modern Mitered Granny Square.
Link to Sliding ring tutorial, if you would like to start your squares the way I do.
Link to Join As You Go tutorial, if you would like to check out how I like to join granny squares.
These are the directions for the blanket I first showed in the Crochet in Progress post, here is a better photo (the colors look a bit washed out, the sun was bright):
And a closer look, remember it is posed on a chair, instead of lying flat so the squares look less than square. Continue reading “Mitered Granny Square”
When I returned to crochet I was very excited to learn new techniques. One of my favorites was learning to attach a new color with a standing stitch, rather than a slip stitch and chaining (I don’t remember where I first saw it). Except I didn’t love that the slip knot was there at the top of the stitch.
After playing around with it for a while, I came up with this way to start off with a standing stitch without a slip knot and chains.
This shows attaching with a dc, you can do it with other stitches too. Start by draping your yarn over your hook, so the short end is in the back.
Wrap the yarn twice over, and hold it on the hook with your finger. These are more loops than you need to make your stitch, but I find it easier to keep them on if there are extra. Keep your finger on top of them to keep them on the hook.
Insert hook where you want to attach, and draw up a loop (it’s a bit ackward until you get used to it).
Now, this part takes a bit of practice, with your yarn hand (the one holding your work, not the hook) hold the tail end of the yarn on the hook to the back of the fabric. That holds the loops on the hook so you can use it and not have to keep your finger on top of the loops. Yarn over the hook like normal…
and draw through 2 loops like a normal dc.
Yarn over again, and pull through 2 more loops. Remember there is extra, don’t pull through more than you need for doing the dc normally (as you get the hang of this, you may not need to do an extra yo).
Now here is how it looks when you add more stitches…
The first stitch looks a bit smaller at the top, but it doesn’t have a stitch on both sides to come out of. The yarn stays in place well enough without the slipknot once you do another stitch, and even better once you weave in the end.
not your average crochet blog is celebrating with a fantabulous give away.
some beautiful yarn, some gorgeous hooks to crochet the yarn with, and some adorable buttons to embellish whatever you make with the yarn and hooks…
To enter their give away you need to leave a comment on their blog post and link to it on your own blog (done and done!).
I got it in my head to make some crochet bunting. I tried quite a few different crochet triangles, there is a nice assortment of them on the interwebs. But none of them were just right for me. I wanted them to be a bit taller than wide, and granny was a must. Some scallop edge would be nice too. I think I am happy with these : )
Yes, yes, I do think I like them quite a bit. The colors in the photo aren’t quite right, they are red, white and aqua.
Here are the directions on how I made them, using the red, white and blue one as the example.
I used worsted weight acrylic yarn and a 4.5 mm hook.
Start with red, make a magic circle, draw up a loop and ch3 (counts as first dc here and everywhere : )
In the circle, 2dc, ch3
4dc, ch3
4dc, ch3, slpst to top of beginning ch3. End off. (1 group of 3dc, 2 groups of 4dc with 3 ch3 “corners” in between each. The 3dc side of the triangle will be the top)
Attach white with a dc or a slpst and ch3 in the corner that is to the right of the group of 3dc. 2dc in same space.
3dc, ch3, 4dc in next corner ch3 space.
4dc, ch3, 4dc in next corner ch3 space.
In the starting ch 3 corner, 4dc, ch3. Slpst to top of beginning stitch or ch3. End off.
Attach aqua to the same ch3 corner that you ended with. 2dc in same space.
3dc in the space between the 3dc group of the previous round.
3dc, ch3, 4dc in the next ch3 corner space.
4dc in the next space between.
4dc, ch3, 4dc in the next corner space.
4dc in the next space between.
In the starting ch3 corner, 4dc, ch3. Slpst to beginning. Do not end off.
Ch3.
3dc in each of the next 2 spaces between.
In the corner ch3 space, 3dc, ch3, 5dc.
In between the 2nd and 3rd dc of the next 4dc, sc.
5dc in next space between.
Sc in between 2nd and 3rd dc.
5dc in between again.
Sc between 2nd and 3rd again.
In the corner ch3 space, 9dc.
Sc in between the 2nd and 3rd dc.
Carry on like that, 5dc in between and sc between the 2nd and 3rd stitch.
In the beginning corner, 5dc, ch3, 2dc. Slpst to top of starting ch3. End off.
Here is a diagram to help out.
To Join the Triangles
With white, make a slip knot and ch8. Slptst to beginning.
Ch8 again.
3dc in right hand corner ch3 space of your first triangle.
ch12
3dc in the opposite ch3 corner space
ch6
3dc in the corner space of your next triangle.
ch12
3dc in opposite corner.
End with ch16, slpst in 8th ch from hook, end off.
Another diagram to help out, hope it is big enough to see clearly….
Love to hear about and see any that you make!
My table topper is almost finished, just need to do all the weaving in (I wish that was as easy as hiding them underneath for the photo : ) I really love how it came out. The colors are so cheerful, a bright spot for morning coffee.
Take a closer look…
I really like the simple, softly pointed edge. Come in and look a little closer…
If you know how to do corners on granny squares, then you already know how to do the edging! In the space between 3 dc, do the 3dc, ch3, 3dc that you would do for a corner. Sc inbetween the next 3dc space. And so on. You need an odd number of 3dc spaces to have it work out right. In the corner spaces, I did 4dc, ch3, 4dc to make them a bit bigger.
You can see some of the squares before the edging was added in this post.
These are pictures of a couple of things I am working on right now.
Some granny squares in my latest favorite colors…
These are being joined together to make a table topper for the very table I took the pictures on. I don’t know what I am going to do for the border yet, maybe a shell/scallop edge.
And my other big project, a mitered crochet blanket. I have quite a way still to go on this, but I really like how it is coming out. A bit blurry photo, but it gives you a straight on view. I plan on writing the pattern for this granny square in the not too distant future.
the directions are here
My mouse stopped working. lI figured it was time to get a new one, as new batteries did not help. Then, I tried to load some pictures from my camera, and it tells me it doesn’t recognize the device. It knew it before!
Tried putting my mouse back, and it doesn’t recognize it either. Clearly not my mouse, must be my usb ports are messed up somehow, or some other mssterious techinical thing. I tried both of them with the same result. I have no idea, and am not going to keep trying things and getting more frustrated.
The frustration will still continue, I hate using the touchpad on my laptop, my photos are trapped in my camera! So, arggghhh!
A searched the web for the error I was getting and found a real simple solution…that actually worked! My photos have been set free from my camera and mouse works again, hurray!
I have been unsatisfied with how I was doing granny rectangles. I didn’t like how the center start didn’t match the rest of the fabric, where the clusters align instead of alternating and the starting chain is obvious. I thought of a different approach, I think I like how it turned out. This is my first tutorial, I hope it makes sense. if something isn’t clear please leave a comment and I’ll see if I can make it make sense : )
Make a sliding ring. Draw up a loop and ch 6(counts as dc, ch3), 3dc, ch3, dc in the ring.
Tighten up the ring and chain 3.
Turn, and work as a row on the bottom side with 2dc in the first ch space and 3dc in the next ch3 space. Ch3 and turn.
Make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc of the previous row, and 1dc in the top of the ch3 of the previous row. Ch 3 and turn.
Continue working as rows, alternating with ch3, 3dc in next space, dc in the top of the ch3 of the previous row for 1 row and ch3, 2dc in the ch space, 3dc in the next ch space for the next row. Make however many rows you want, but you want to end with a row that has a center 3dc and a ch3/dc at each end.
I am going to change colors, so I am ending with a ch3 instead of a dc. That gives a consistent ch3 for each “corner” of my rectangle. If I was going to keep on with the same color, I would just do a dc, ch 3 for the round instead.
Slip stitch to the top of the ch3 of the previous row. End off. You now have a narrow rectangle of rows, with corner spaces.
Attach a new color in a corner space with a dc (or slpst, ch3). 2dc, ch3, 3dc.
Continue around, doing 3dc along the side in the space between the 3dc’s of the rows and 3dc, ch3, 3dc in each corner space.
And there you have it, a crocheted granny rectangle.
Crochet Again 